There’s a heartbeat to Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, that can catch visitors by surprise. The city isn’t grand like Paris or as wild as Istanbul, but it knows how to quietly enchant. With its red rooftops, lively markets, proud cathedrals, and everyday rituals, Zagreb has a gentle energy that makes wandering its streets an adventure for those who pay attention. Whether you’re searching for historic sites, parks, or just a good pastry, Zagreb feels like a place where every corner has a secret worth knowing.
Table of Contents
Arriving in Zagreb and Getting Around the City
Landing at Franjo Tuđman Airport or stepping off the train at Glavni Kolodvor, Zagreb’s main station, feels like entering a city that blends old and new with confidence. The airport sits a short bus ride from the city center no need for a taxi. The shuttle bus takes around 30 minutes, ending at the main bus station, where trams wait to take you further. Zagreb’s blue trams, a symbol of the city, are easy to use and connect almost everywhere you might want to explore.
If you prefer to walk, most sights in the center are close together. Trams run often, and you’ll find ticket kiosks or machines at stops. Locals are quick to offer directions if you ask with a smile and a simple: “Dobar dan” (Good day). The city runs at a relaxed speed, and there’s no rush unless you’re trying to cross a street before the tram arrives.
Ban Jelačić Square and the Heart of Zagreb
Every journey here passes through Ban Jelačić Square. Lined with Habsburg-era buildings and dominated by the statue of Josip Jelačić, a 19th-century general, this is the city’s beating heart. In the early morning, old men sip coffee under umbrellas, while street musicians play everything from folk songs to rock ballads. The square is a crossroads: to the north, you can see the twin towers of the Zagreb Cathedral; to the west, the cobbled streets of the Upper Town beckon.

Ban Jelačić Square (“Trg bana Jelačića”) is also where locals meet: if a friend says, “Vidimo se kod sata,” they’ll meet you “by the clock” a popular meeting point beneath the square’s famous clock. From here, every corner of Zagreb is within easy reach, whether you want to shop, eat, or just people-watch.
Exploring Upper Town (Gornji Grad) and Its Stories
No visit to Zagreb feels complete without climbing the winding paths or taking the funicular up to Upper Town, known locally as Gornji Grad. This is the oldest part of the city. Cobblestone streets snake past stone gates, lanterns, and hidden courtyards. Here, at dusk, the city’s official lamplighter still walks his route, lighting each gas lamp by hand. Watching him feels like a scene from another century.

St. Mark’s Church dominates a small square at the center of Upper Town. Its famous roof shines with brightly colored tiles, forming the medieval coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia, as well as Zagreb itself. The church sits quietly among political buildings, including the seat of Parliament. Stand here at noon and you might catch the echo of the daily cannon shot from Lotrščak Tower, a centuries-old ritual meant to mark the exact hour for the city.

Lotrščak Tower is a short walk away. You can climb its narrow stairs for maybe the best view in Zagreb. On clear days, the entire city is spread out before you rooftops, parks, church spires, and the distant mountains. If you’re in the right place at the right time, listen for the thunderous boom of the Grič cannon, a tradition since the 19th century. Locals never seem to flinch, but I always did.

Zagreb Cathedral and the City’s Resilience
Zagreb Cathedral, with its two proud spires, is the city’s symbol of survival and faith. The cathedral has been rebuilt and repaired many times, most recently after an earthquake in 2020. Its creamy-white facade rises high above the city, and stepping inside is a moment of peace; sunlight spills through stained glass, and the air is cool and scented with candle wax.

There’s a quiet heroism to this place. Each part of the cathedral has its story. The treasury holds relics and treasures from centuries of Croatian history, while outside, the golden statue of Mary stands in silent welcome. Don’t rush your visit this is a place to linger, sit, and reflect. If you pass by on a Sunday morning, you’ll hear voices raised in song, echoing through the Old Town.
The Museum of Broken Relationships: A Bittersweet Stop
It doesn’t matter if you’re traveling alone or with someone you love the Museum of Broken Relationships is an essential Zagreb experience. Housed in a beautiful baroque palace in Upper Town, this museum collects objects and stories from failed romances all over the world. The displays can be funny, sad, odd, or comforting, depending on your mood. I spent an hour laughing, crying, and thinking about the people who left their memories behind. “Hvala” (Thank you) to whoever thought of this place it reminds us that heartbreak is universal, and sometimes healing can be found in sharing stories.

Despite its theme, the museum is surprisingly hopeful. It celebrates resilience and the human spirit, and as you leave, you might notice couples holding hands a little tighter or friends exchanging knowing glances. On my way out, I heard a visitor whisper to her friend, “Svaka čast” an expression of respect or admiration in Croatian.
Markets, Parks, and Everyday Life in Zagreb
To truly feel Zagreb, wander through Dolac Market in the morning. Locals call it the “belly of Zagreb.” Under the famous red umbrellas, vendors sell fresh vegetables, fruit, cheese, honey, and flowers. The lively market is where news and gossip travel faster than trams. I once bought a handful of wild strawberries from a grandmother who smiled and winked, telling me with pride, “Domaće!” meaning “homegrown.”

Next to the market, bakery windows tempt with burek (a pastry filled with cheese or meat) and warm slices of Zagreb strudel. Inside small cafes, people greet each other with “Kako ste?” (How are you?), and the answer is always “Dobro sam,” even if life is complicated. It’s friendly, but with a certain Balkan reserve people value politeness and directness, but appreciate when visitors try a few Croatian words.
For a break, stroll to Zrinjevac Park, a green oasis in the heart of the city. Here, musicians play under a cast-iron gazebo, and in spring, the air smells of blooming chestnut trees. Locals soak up the sun on benches, reading newspapers or simply watching the world go by. Zagreb’s parks feel like open living rooms, welcoming everyone, from families with strollers to teenage skateboarders.

Hidden Corners, Peaceful Cemeteries, and Artistic Surprises
Some of Zagreb’s most beautiful surprises are a bit harder to find. Mirogoj Cemetery, just outside the center, is no ordinary cemetery it’s part sculpture garden, part open-air museum. A tram ride and a short walk bring you to a place of domed arcades, tiled roofs, and endless paths lined with chestnut trees. The names and dates on the gravestones tell the story of Zagreb’s many communities: Croats, Serbs, Hungarians, Austrians, Jews, and others, all finding rest side by side. Ivy covers the walls, birds sing, and the whole place feels peaceful and strangely uplifting a testament to coexistence and memory.

Back in the center, the Croatian National Theatre stands as a golden-yellow palace of culture. Built in the late 1800s, it’s the city’s stage for opera, ballet, and drama. Even if you don’t catch a show, peek inside the lobby to see painted ceilings and marble staircases. Sometimes, you might see ballet dancers practicing at the windows above, their silhouettes flickering in the evening light a living postcard moment.

Food, Flavors, and Neighborhoods
Zagreb’s food scene mixes hearty Central European tastes with Mediterranean freshness and Balkan comfort. Tkalčićeva Street, known to locals as “Tkalča,” is filled with cafes and restaurants where you can try štrukli (pastry stuffed with cheese and baked until golden), grilled ćevapi (small sausages served with flatbread and onions), or even a goulash that could rival Budapest’s finest.
The city’s Upper Town (Gornji Grad) offers cozy taverns where the wooden beams and old stone walls feel like a hug. In the Lower Town, near Zrinjevac Park, you’ll find fancier bakeries and patisseries. Venture out to the Trešnjevka or Maksimir districts for more casual spots frequented by locals, where the daily menu (dnevni meni) often costs less than a museum ticket. Don’t miss a doughnut or krafna from a street vendor especially during carnival season, when everyone seems to be indulging.
Staying in Zagreb: Neighborhoods and Atmosphere
Central Zagreb is compact, and most visitors stay within walking distance of Ban Jelačić Square. The Lower Town (Donji Grad) has modern apartments and old grand hotels, while Upper Town offers quieter, historic guesthouses. If you want a more residential feeling, search for a place near Maksimir Park or the leafy streets around Britanski trg. Each area gives a different perspective, from the lively student life near the university to the older, slower rhythms of Kaptol and Gornji Grad.
Zagreb isn’t a major party city like Berlin, but the nightlife has its own rhythm. Locals enjoy long evenings in wine bars, jazz clubs, or outdoor terraces, especially in the summer when festivals fill the parks and squares with music. There’s a sense of familiarity a city where bartenders remember your order and neighbors greet you on stairwells. If you stay longer, you’ll start to feel part of the fabric.
Quirky Traditions, Everyday Etiquette, and Useful Croatian Phrases
Zagreb has its quirks. Every afternoon at noon, the cannon from Lotrščak Tower fires. In December, Advent festivals fill the city with mulled wine, sausages, and outdoor dancing. On St. Martin’s Day, locals “baptize” new wine and raise a glass to the coming winter. The city’s rituals are quiet but rich folk music sometimes drifts from church steps, and handmade lace, woodcrafts, and painted Easter eggs are sold at markets, especially during festivals.
When greeting someone, a firm handshake and eye contact are appreciated Croatians tend to be formal at first but open up quickly. It’s polite to say “Molim” (Please) when ordering, and “Hvala” (Thank you) when served. Tipping in cafes and restaurants is not expected but always welcomed. One thing to avoid: talking too loudly in public spaces. Zagreb loves its peace and quiet.
Why Zagreb Leaves Its Mark
It’s easy to be won over by a city that feels sincere. Zagreb doesn’t try to impress with size or flash, but surprises with little moments: an old tram rattling past at sunset, the smell of fresh bread from a side street, the echo of a distant choir, or neighbors saying “Laku noć” (Good night) as the city settles into evening. The more you let yourself wander, the more Zagreb opens up.
If you find Zagreb’s blend of old and new captivating, discover how Sarajevo also embraces rich history and vibrant streets in its own unique way Sarajevo’s City Soul.
After a few days here, you might find yourself picking up small habits ordering a morning espresso at the same café, strolling Dolac Market before breakfast, or saying “Doviđenja” (Goodbye) with a small wave as you leave. These are the things that make Zagreb unforgettable: its postcard views, yes, but even more, its living traditions and gentle rhythm.
If you come with curiosity and patience, you’ll leave with stories. Zagreb is a place to pay attention, to notice the details, and to connect. And someday, you might find yourself whispering “Vidimo se uskoro” see you soon as you promise to return.

Eastern Europe travel specialist uncovering hidden gems from the Baltics to the Balkans.
- Zagreb, Croatia July 2022 – Cathedral by Sharon Hahn Darlin on Wikimedia Commons – cc by 2.0
- Ban Jelačić Square by Miroslav Vajdic on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 2.0
- Zagreb (30594984567) by Fred Romero from Paris, France on Wikimedia Commons – cc by 2.0
- Iglesia de San Marco, Zagreb, Croacia, 2014-04-13, DD 03 by Diego Delso on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 3.0
- Kula Lotrščak by Suradnik13 on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 4.0
- Zagreb Cathedral 2020 by Ex13 on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 4.0
- HR-ZG-Zagreb146 by Szeder László on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 4.0
- Dolac Market In Zagreb Croatia by Jeronimo Alcala on Wikimedia Commons – cc by 3.0
- Park at King Tomislav square by Sharon Hahn Darlin on Wikimedia Commons – cc by 2.0
- Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb 03 by Bernard Gagnon on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 4.0
- Croatian National Theatre Zagreb 1 by User:(WT-en) HappyV on Wikimedia Commons – cc by-sa 3.0
